Balabac: Down to the South

I was still sick when my sister in Balabac island called me up to ask when I'm going to visit them. It was over ten days since I got the flu and naturally, she was expecting that I must have been over it. Still feeling weak though, I gave in and decided to travel even I was uncertain of how I would be feeling the next day. It's uncomfortable travelling when you are sick.

I immediately called my nephews and asked who would be escorting me to this far-flung municipality of Palawan. Two of them and my other niece decided to tag along which I'm glad to oblige since I would have somebody when I would need some assistance. It was a long and tedious 5-hour-shuttle-van-ride to Rio Tuba, the farthest end of mainland Palawan and another 4 to 5 hours boat ride to Balabac.

We arrived in Rio Tuba and immediately fetched a trike to bring us to the port. It is not really a port per se but rather a makeshift one. Despite the proliferation of the mining industry in the area, I never understood how they could not build a better pier. We passed by a slum area through the wood planks to get to the boats. After signing in for the boat ride, we decided to take our lunch at one sari-sari store/eatery. We had to wait for another hour for other passengers. Already at the docks, one would realise that a different language that I could not understand is spoken. Even though I was able to communicate in Filipino-Tagalog, I felt a little bit left out.

After a stop-over at Bangcalaan island, we've reached the island of Balabac after a 5-hour boat ride. I immediately called up my sister to fetch us up, and she was there with the trike before the boat took a berth. It was more than 8 years when I last saw my sister and her eldest was barely 3 years old. Now, I'm meeting my niece and two other nephews for the first time.

Puerto Princesa: Back To The City

Day 16: Sabang - Puerto Princesa

In the morning, my companion decided to stay and just relax and read in a hammock on our small veranda while I went out photographing. 

Then I took my lunch at a small turo-turo next to the pier before going back to our cottage, pack up and check out. We had to be at the pier area which is by the way only about 5 minutes walk from Dabdab to be picked-up at around 14:00-14:30. There were about 20 identical looking vans, and we forgot to fix the meeting place with the driver or the tour guide. I only had a few bars left on my cell phone, so I was still able to call the Hibiscus Garden in the city. (The staff were really efficient, friendly and accommodating and we could only speak well of them) They phoned the tour guide and told him where to pick us up in Sabang. The guide immediately found us waiting at the tourist office and off we drove back to the city at 15:00 together with their other guests who went to the underground river. The ride cost us 500 Php apiece. Anyhow, there were other means of transportation going back to the city with a jeepney or (Lexus) van.

In Puerto Princesa, we checked in again at the Hibiscus Garden, and we were given another room which is by the way, equally suitable as the other rooms. I decided to call up two of my nephews and took them out to dinner while my companion chose to stay at the hotel and eat pizza (which is probably the best pizza we've ever had during our whole trip) at the place own restaurant.

Sabang: Undertow Tows You Under

Day 15: Sabang

The next morning we roused at 6:30 to go on a mangrove tour. It was actually a bit late if one wants to see the birds. You just go to the beach right of the pier along the hotels and through the coconut groves on the same path going to the underground river. We agreed with the boatman the previous day to come earlier so that we can still see the birds and other animals. During low tide, our boatman, who is an old man, told us that you can even see the monkeys eating crabs. It was indeed a fantastic boat ride early in the morning with just the sound of nature in the mangrove forest. Towards the end of our tour, he sang for us their “mangrove song”. Then we got back to where we started and allowed to plant “our” mangrove to mark our visit. I will definitely check on it when I get back there. They have allotted an area where visitors could plant mangroves, and you can see varying sizes of growth and age of the plants.

We went swimming immediately right after the tour. The beach was deserted despite the best of weather. There were many signs at the hotel area warning everyone of a strong undertow thus it is dangerous to swim in the area. It was much of an alarmist thing. There were no lifeguards esp. after 6:00 p.m., so it was discouraged to swim. I have been there several times and can safely say I knew how the weather there is. Anyhow, if you don’t go away far from the beach and as long as you can still feel the sand on your feet, you can frolic on the waters relatively safe. Bathing or swimming in Sabang was pretty good since there were no rocks or seagrasses - just clear water and fine white sand.

 

On our way to Sabang, we were already warned against swimming. Most of the Filipinos are non-swimmers so I can understand the guide's concern. Naturally, the safety of her guests is her primary concern. Pesky sand flies (niknik) are also present in many beaches. Fortunately, we didn't have them in Sabang. Perhaps it's seasonal too. I can only remember during my previous trips that there were some in other swimming areas. After swimming, we went around a bit through this sleepy little village. Most of the tourist just arrive with the van, go to the underground river, eat lunch at some cottage then drive back to the city.

The accommodations in Sabang are relatively cheap and very affordable unless you wanted to stay at the more cosy resorts like Sheridan or Daluyon which prices range from 4,000 Php a night and up. The rest is basic cottages which cost as low as 800 Php (a cottage). There is no ATM machine in Sabang, so it's better to bring enough cash with you. We went to Sabang Cafe which lies on the right side of the road going back to Puerto Princesa. This is under new management which is a Filipino. It was formerly owned by a French. We ate a sumptuous meal then were surprised with a free dessert courtesy of the chef which I've learned was previously a chef of Sheridan. This was really a pleasant and very welcomed surprise. I'll truly recommend this café. (*As of 2017, this cafe is not in business anymore).

On our way back to our cottage, we made a stop at the tidal flats left of the pier, to take pictures, of the mountains as a fantastic backdrop, of small fishes and small crabs. We rested and then went to dinner at Dabdab's own restaurant.

It rained at night, and it feels so good warmly tucked in the bed and listening to the rain pattering down the roof. You are practically inside the rainforest, in the middle of this beautiful nature and feeling protected inside the cottage.