Sabang: Like A River Flows

Finally, we reached the cave entrance, a bustling place with several tourists groups. My mate needed his cigarette break after a three-hour jungle trek, but unfortunately for him, it was not allowed in the park. We then presented ourselves at the entrance for the boat ride going inside the cave. Numbers were called out and the boat filled in. The 45 minutes ride inside was a real treat. There were many unusual rock formations which the boatmen-cum-guides named, like giant candles, the cathedral (with figures resembling like the holy family, or some saints) etc.

Then at some point, we arrived at the “market” where stalactites were shaped like giant vegetables, giant jellyfish or octopus. It’s dark like the night inside the cave, so the boats were equipped with a small battery powered spotlight light on the different rock formations. The boatman jokingly said that when somebody falls into the water, nobody will ever notice and that we have to make a headcount upon our return. I wonder where Batman went as we haven’t seen his Batmobile. The underground river is full of bats and of course bat-shit (err I meant guano, lol) and so it reeks. Sometimes water drips from the cave ceiling, and so we were instructed to keep our mouths shut when we look up, else it will be filled up with who knows what.

Then it was time to find a boat to share going back to Sabang since hiking again was not really an option. Besides, it was already past 3:00 p.m. and slowly getting dark. The boats were all hired by the other tourists for a round trip to the cave. Luckily, some guests decided to brave the trails. Though I doubt that it would be hard to find a boat to share with since there were many which have only at least 3 or 4 people in it. As you drive back to the village, you have the fantastic view of the lush green and karst mountains, the beaches. It was a joy to relive the memories I had of my college days during our research at the park.

In the evening we had our sumptuous dinner at the restaurant of Dabdab. Btw, Dabdab literally means to fire-up (the cooking or grilling) in the local language.

Puerto Princesa Underground River: A World Heritage

Day 14: Sabang

The World Heritage Convention defines types of natural, cultural, or mixed properties that may be inscribed on the World Heritage List. Natural properties are sites of intense beauty that maintain the environmental balance of a region or of the world, or sites that show a unique geological origin that was made from the formation of the earth. Cultural properties are man-made and demonstrate the highest achievements of human thought and creativity. There are also mixed properties, called “cultural landscapes” on the World Heritage List, that combine outstanding natural and cultural values resulting from constant interaction between people and the natural environment.

After unpacking, we decided to hike to the Underground River via the jungle trail. We then had to secure a permit first before heading off to the hike. I only remember that there was the monkey trail, which goes through the beach-forest and the jungle trail that goes through the forest. But before coming to Malipien, the Park Ranger Station, you have to cross the mangrove forest and the river. With a small donation, the boatman at the mangrove river will take you to the other side of the river (or you can opt to walk on the beach area). The beach area was pretty secluded, and at the time of this writing, the zip line from the park’s entrance was not yet operational.

Anyhow the trails close at 15:00 (3:00 p.m.). It gets dark at 18:00 (6:00 p.m.) and there were no rangers around, so apparently, no one would like to be lost in the jungle. We were already halfway when we realised that the monkey trail (a few meters shorter and a bit more accessible) was blocked. No one told us at the tourist office in Sabang. Anyway, turning back was never an option, so we braved the trails and into the depths of the jungle, going up and down on partly steep rocks.

All of a sudden, it became totally dark almost like night. Then a heavy rain drenched us really good. I brought a small LED light with me, knowing that it could be dark inside the forest even at daytime, but didn’t bring any raincoat or good cover at least for my camera. I did my undergraduate research at this park (together with my BS Biology classmates from Palawan State University), so I have a little inkling of how it is there. This is a tropical rainforest with somehow overlapping perennial, beach and mangrove forest.

On some parts, the way was clearly marked, but at some, you really need to hold on to the outgrowths and become monkey-like. It was a whole lot better than LOST. Some existing wood and bamboo railings were full of black ants it’s just impossible to hold on to it. The way eventually got muddy and slippery, so our slippers were getting stuck and make the climbing more difficult. My friend slipped and fell on his butt, landed on the mud a couple of times during our descent. That was something for the books. LOL.

Eventually, we met oncoming tourists, which somehow a relief coz we thought we were all alone in the jungle. We come to another rocky hill and down again to a boulder with a little cave. I’ve already taken off my wet shirt and already bathing in a mixture of rain and my own sweat. It was indeed a great experience but didn’t want to repeat it, at least not on the same day.

Puerto Princesa: The City In The Forest

Day 10: Cebu - Puerto Princesa

After a short break at the Inn, we then went out to explore the city. Puerto Princesa as I remembered hasn't really changed that much. There are the familiar places I go to in high school and college. Even my friend said that unlike in Cebu or Manila he felt safer everywhere in Puerto Princesa in spite of the chaotic traffic of mostly tricycles and multicabs. I've learned later on that the big busses and trucks were already banned inside the downtown area. They have a terminal at the new market just outside the city centre. There are no taxis in the city, but plenty of tricycles that are more or less dented but also cheaper. Only the traffic is chaotic, albeit on a smaller scale.

We first went to the port area to see the cathedral which is one prominent edifice in the city esp. when you arrived by boat or ship. The Plaza Cuartel lies next to it. It is the unfortunate place of a massacre of more or less 150 American soldiers by the Japanese soldiers during WWII at the underground bunkers. A bronze marker was placed on the site now.

Next, we went to the "Baywalk" where formerly a slum area and now a fantastic promenade with a view of the sea and the mountains. There are numerous food and beverage stalls, we splurged a very simple but tasty mango shake.  Afterwards, we went to the "shopping centre" at NCCC to buy some provisions.

Puerto Princesa takes pride to be the cleanest and greenest city in the country, and it's rightly so. The city centre does not have so many attractions, but it has many just outside in the nearby Barangays. The crocodile farm is only ca. 20 minutes away and the beautiful butterfly garden is also about along the way.  We opted out to go to the crocodile farm as what a friend of mine told me that it is not kept in excellent condition, and the safety is somewhat a bit questionable. Anyhow, it was not a big deal for us since we still have a lot to go to and see. One would already need a day to do the island hopping along Honda Bay. Most of the tourists go on a day trip to the underground river, but for a real nature lover, I could say that three days would probably be the minimum.

Puerto Princesa is the capital of the province, hence the primary jump-off point for travellers to the islands. But of course one can opt to go there as a last stop-over before going back to Manila.

In the evening we met my good friend Daisy who picked us up and brought to a nice restaurant "Ke Nikko" in Barangay San Pedro, where she also personally knows the owner. We got introduced and eventually "Nikko" drove us back also to our place.