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Showing posts with label aquaduct. Show all posts
Showing posts with label aquaduct. Show all posts

Thursday, April 12, 2012

Município de Elvas

We had to get up early because we had planned a more extended excursion. The bus going to Elvas leaves at 9:00 a.m., but we still had to walk from our hotel to the station. The station in Evora, like those in Albufeira, are well equipped, with ticketing office and electronic boards and clear terminal numbers etc. so everyone (esp. tourists) will find its way quickly.

Evora is a strategic point with excellent transportation links to Algarve and lies proximate to Lisbon. You can also go from there to Portalegre, from where you can also continue to the north-eastern mountains and Spain. Have we had more time, we probably even made a side trip to Beja, which was said to be comparable to Evora and Badajoz (Spain). Here are the bus schedules in the Alentejo region.

Going to Elvas, you need to ride the faster "Viagens Rapidas" bus. It's about 1.5 hours away from Evora and costs €6.95 per person. The trip to Elvas has really paid off. We immediately went off at the station near the aqueduct, the "Aqueduto da Amoreira", since it was the main reason for the trip there.What's left of the aqueduct in Evora was nothing compared to the rest of the aqueduct in Elvas which extends about 6 km long on the plateau across the valley and to the upper reaches of the town. (*It's currently enlisted to the new world heritage list of the UNESCO on July 2, 2012). The whole area is being maintained and really pleasant to see and walk around.


Elvas received its town charter in 1513, formerly occupied by Moors reoccupied by the Christians and become Portuguese again in 1226. Oranges that were picked in Elvas were sent to the Spanish Queen Maria Luisa of Bourbon-Parma thus gave its name to the "Orange War". A good read on this subject is the book written by Martin Page, "First Global Village: How Portugal Changed the World.

After our aqueduct-sightseeing, we walked up to the nearby city walls through the gates of "Portas da Esquina". We walked through the streets inside the city walls and further up to the Castelo. But first I had to make a side trip into the market hall and into the water closet. So far the experience in the Portuguese toilets was good. Everything was cleaner than what we had in Berlin.


The castle itself was terrific, with a great view of the mountainous range around it, some lemon trees and even barrier-free for handicapable. Also, the old military facility was still there to be seen. On our way back, we went to the old town and across the square. We stopped by at the tourist information because we didn't know where the bus station was. We alighted at another location near the aqueduct when we got there. But the people there were accommodating and told us where to go. We had pretty much the idea where it was located. One can orient himself upon coming out of the city walls. There was the "Lidl" supermarket which can already be seen from up the city walls, and the bus station is just right next to it.


We had some time, and I was hungry, so I told my friend to come with me to the adjacent restaurant which was also recommended by a Chinese girl I've asked at the chinese supermarket. It was quite challenging to communicate with no one there spoke English, German or even Spanish or Italian at the restaurant. The waiter didn't also have the desire to try to understand. I've asked something to drink (coffee and coca-cola) at the bar in the same restaurant and got what I wished in spite of no one speaking or understanding English. Take note that coca-cola is kinda standard. Coffee, as I have later on learned, is espresso there. Anyhow, there were foods at the counter, and I've asked the bar girl as well as his colleague, then another friend who was standing there and of course the waiter. I supposed they understood what I said because they seemed to agree with the looks of it. A few minutes have passed, and other customers came after and were already served and started eating. Then I asked the waiter again and even demonstrated with my hand making an eating gesture? And of course he only said something in Portuguese, but judging from the tone that it was unpleasant. It was really a test of my patience. Then came some girls about my age and the waiter of course promptly attended them. I approached the girls and was hoping any of them speaks even a bit of English. Asked them politely to ask the waiter about what happened to my food? Even though I don't speak Portuguese, I could sense the waiter's rudeness towards me. Then I (still) politely thanked him for his incredible service, paid for the coffee and coca-cola and went off. I take pride in my ability to deal with any kind of people, but this has just ruined my experience of Elvas.


We consoled ourselves by a little detour to the supermarket and bought some bread and soda. Then we are on for the 13:45 bus on the way back to Evora, but first we wanted to make use of our time and visit Vila Viçosa. It cost €3.80 from Elvas and takes about an hour with the bus. We can already see on the way the marble extraction in the villages. In the book says that the region should be visited esp. the municipalities of Estremoz and Borba. Vila Viçosa looks nice even though we didn't have much time to explore because we had to take the last bus at 16:40.


The area around Vila Viçosa was already inhabited by the Celts and the Romans. The region was part of the Visigothic kingdom and was later conquered by the Moors. The kingdom was reclaimed in 1217, and King Afonso III gave the town a charter in 1270. In the early 14th century, King Dionysius I built a castle. In 1461, the region came under the rules of the Bragança dynasty. Their family palace was completed in 1507. As Count João became King João IV, the family moved to Lisbon and used the massive castle in Vila Viçosa only as a summer residence.


We went up to the castle, past the church of Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceição. The way was like in some kind of fantasy village, land of plenty. The road was lined with tangerine trees, and all were full of ripe fruits. I have read in a book that these plants originally from Tangier during the ancient times, thus the name tangerine. The entrance fee to the castle is 3€ which includes the hunting museum. They did an excellent job with the presentation of the artefacts, and from the top, there is a good view of the town. It's only us and some children at the time there. We didn't have much time, so we decided a quick tour of the museum but didn't have much time to see the hunting museum.


Then we went down and back to Praça da Republica and tried out a drinking fountain which spewed out a gush of water and made my shirt wet. We stopped briefly under the tangerine trees and sat at the marble benches and then we went to the tourist's information office where we were greeted by an elderly lady who was enthusiastic as the man at the museum. There were not many tourists at the time (at least I haven't seen anyone who looks like a tourist, and maybe that's why they are so friendly) so after a bit of chit chat, she gave us a town map and directed us to the Paço Ducal de Vila Viçosa. It is a vast palace with equally huge square and equestrian statue. But since we were running out of time, I took a few more photos and then quickly went back to the bus stop going back to Evora.


We arrived in Evora around 17:30 then went to the pizzeria across the street. They served good pizza.

Wednesday, April 11, 2012

Liberalitas Julia, Evora

We started quite early the next day. The bus from Lagos to Evora begins at 7:20 a.m., but we needed some buffer time just to get to the station. Eventually, we got up at 4:00 a.m. and had enough time to eat breakfast at our place and got ready slowly.

Since we had no desire to schlepp our luggage across town to the bus station, I asked my friend to call a taxi. I remember we got the calling card of the taxi when we arrived in Lagos. His attempt to call the cab gone awry since the one who picked up on the other end didn't speak any English. My friend already resigned to walking to the station. Then I decided to call again. It was harrowing to talk to the person on the other line. I tried my very best with the few Portuguese words I have learned and ask him to come to the address of the hotel. I wasn't even sure if the person on the line actually understood me. We decided to take our luggage out of the apartment and thought we would give him at least 10 minutes to fetch us. So we waited, and fortunately, the cab came to fetch us. Then I realised it was Vitali, the same driver who drove us when we arrived.

We arrived at the station and got plenty of time to wait for the departure since we've already bought our ticket online. The ticket can also be purchased at the station btw. And it costs 15.20€ per person. Anyhow, we had to travel first to Albufeira and get another bus from there to Evora. Another alternative is going with the train from Lagos to Albufeira, but our travel guide said that the train station and bus station are far away from one another. It seems to be complicated for us, and we don't know how much time we needed to get from point a to point b. It was, of course, easier with the bus since it will get you just everywhere you wish to go as long as it is in the plan. Buses in Portugal are quite reliable. So we arrived right at the bus station in Albufeira (Calicos). We had plenty of time for our onward journey, so we took our breakfast at a nice cafe at the station. The terminal is quite modern, and I personally like the architectural style. I'm impressed with how clean it is. That was probably the most convenient stop during our whole journey. The departure has electronic signs as to where to go and which numbers of the platform and bus.


Our bus left at 9:15 a.m. and we had a brief stopover in Castro Verde, where we initially thought to stay for a couple of nights. The bus station is not looking so great, so we were actually happy with not staying there. Otherwise, we considered about staying in Mertola, which supposed to be really lovely but the transportation is supposed to be not so reliable.


We arrived in Evora at 12:30 p.m. and decided to take a taxi to our hotel. The hotel is located in the city centre right at Praça Giraldo, whereas the bus station was outside the city walls. We were kind of curious about this "design hotel" so we booked a room for 55€ per night at the Evora Inn Chiado Design. The price did not include breakfast but could be ordered for a couple of euros more. It did not matter anyway because we planned to start early the next days when they haven't opened their dining area yet. But first, we had to wait to check-in since our room was not ready. It was a bit of a challenge with the language. The chambermaid doesn't really speak English, but we asked her if we could store our luggage in the room. We weren't sure if she understood us but eventually it was agreed that we leave our pieces of luggage.


We immediately took off after depositing our things and went around town for some sightseeing. We started our walking tour with a lunch at a restaurant "O Cruz" right next to the church, the "Igreja de São Francisco". This gothic-Manueline church was built from 1480-1510  under the King João II and finished under King Manuel. Immediately a dog kept our company at the restaurant, but we thought against feeding it. We heard that those dogs will follow you around.


Then we went to the chapel next to the church, the "Capela dos Ossos" or chapel of bones. It is one of the best-known monuments of Evora. The interior of this chapel was decorated with human skulls and bones. Quite spooky.


The Capela dos Ossos was built in the 16th century by a Franciscan monk who, in the Counter-Reformation spirit of that era, wanted to prod his fellow brothers into contemplation and transmit the message of life being transitory. This is clearly shown in the famous warning at the entrance Nós ossos que aqui estamos pelos vossos esperamos (“We, the bones that are here, await yours.").
 Afterwards, we went to see the market, but it was empty at the time, so we moved on to the "Jardim Publico", the public park. There were some ruins, an old building of Palacio de Dom Manuel and some peacocks.


Finally, it was time to check-in, so we went back to the hotel. The receptionist was quite friendly in spite of the not so good command of the English language. The room was quite small, but it was okay. We were on the top roof, and of course, we had to haul our heavy luggage up on the narrow stairs. We were on the rooftop, but it was not much use for me since it was still cold when we were there. The location is quite ideal, in the middle of the old historic town and the bus station is not that far from the city centre either, but with the luggage in tow, it would be no fun. It is advisable to take a taxi, and it should not cost more than 10 euros.

The weather was not the best, but it was good enough to walk around town. The town of Evora was enlisted to the UNESCO's World Heritage List due to its well-preserved old town centre which still enclosed by medieval walls, massive monuments dating from various historical periods. A Roman temple, also known as "Templo de Diana", the imposing Evora Cathedral (Sé de Évora) and S.Brás chapel (built in 1480 and an excellent example of moresque-gothic with cylindrical buttresses), are included in the listing.


We then went to see the remaining part of the aqueduct, the Aqueduto da Água de Prata (Aqueduct of Silver Water, with its prominent arches stretching for 8 kilometres). This aqueduct was built in 1531-1537 under the tutelage of King João III to supply the city with water.