Malta - Day 14: Exploring Mġarr and Swimming in Xlendi

As we had already visited the main attractions in Gozo that we had planned to see, we decided to have a relaxation day. We slept a little longer, then we had a late breakfast at the San Antonio Guesthouse in Xlendi. However - we thought a little trip to the harbor in Mgarr couldn´t hurt and there would still be time to stay at the pool and take a dip in Xlendi Bay.

We walked down to the Xlendi Bus Stop (located behind St. Patrick´s Hotel) to get the hourly Bus 306 to the Victoria Bus Terminal, where all buses on Gozo depart. There we switched coaches and rode the bus 301 to Mgarr. Inside the waiting bus, we were greeted by an uproar, as (mostly older) people inside were arguing. The "problem person," who seemed to have caused the arguing, fortunately, left the bus before we departed. Given that the uproar was in Maltese we didn't understand a word.

Soon we arrived in Mgarr at the Vapur Bus Station, which is just at the Ferry Terminal, where the ferries to the main island of Malta depart. We walked around in the neat area and watched the first loads of day guests arrive in Gozo.

From inside the bus, we had seen signs for the Fort Chambray, so we opted to walk up there from the harbor. But first, we passed by a supermarket and wanted to get something to drink, as it was already quite hot. I immediately got inside while my friend was asked to drop his bag in a locker room. I've admittedly missed the sign as it was the one and only supermarket in Malta that I have been to where they have a locker at the entrance. Later at the counter, I was asked to open my bag for the woman to check. I might have stolen something. There was no point in arguing with her as she won't let me buy the cookies, a pack of gum and a dental floss unless I let her check my bag. I pity her as she seems to be pretty bored. It was quite an unpleasant supermarket. Can't they just use cameras like any other supermarket?

Still a little upset, we walked further up until we reached the entrance to Bethlehem Village, but didn't step further, as it seemed to be closed. We proceeded along the road to Fort Chambray. However - there wasn't really something to see. It looked like they were working on it. Later, we read that they want to build luxury apartments there. 

The next bus back to Victoria was still some time away. So, we walked further along the road and then waited at a bus stop. When the bus arrived, it, unfortunately, didn't stop (despite everyone at the bus stop waving). It was apparently crowded with day tourists from the ferry terminal. Fortunately, we knew, there was another bus line to Victoria and walked in the direction of the Ghajnsielem Parish Church to another bus stop. The next bus that arrived after some more waiting was nearly empty and brought us finally back to Victoria. 

From Victoria, we went back to Xlendi and climbed the hill at the bay and followed the path back down to the water. Xlendi is really beautiful, rather peaceful and relaxed and I couldn't get enough of it. Of course, the trip wouldn't be complete without taking a plunge at the bay. Wonder why the water was still so cold.

Later, we came back for dinner at the oceanfront. The next day we would already have to leave for Valletta. 

 

 

Malta Day 11: Welcome to Gozo, Victoria and the Cittadella

After another excellent breakfast buffet at the Maritim Antonine Hotel & Spa in Mellieha, we took a taxi to Cirkewwa, where the ferry to Gozo departs. It also would have been possible to take a bus from the Adenau Bus Stop. But the cab seemed to be the better option than to end up in an entirely crowded bus with no real space to put our luggage (again) and it's also just 6 kilometers away. 

We arrived at the ferry terminal and asked the lovely woman there, where to buy the tickets for the ferry, but she told us, that you purchase the tickets only at your return trip. So, we just had to wait a bit and could walk onto the next colossal ferry (they travel very frequent), where we found a good place outside for the relaxing 30-minute ride.

When we arrived, we wanted to take two different busses to our home for the next four nights in Xlendi, which looked charming online (both, the village and our guesthouse). But the bus was already overcrowded and didn't take anyone in anymore. We asked a taxi driver and got a ride for 15 Euro, so off we went! 

Gozo is basically the sister island of Malta. It´s much smaller than the main island and also said to be more relaxed. I hoped to find out! We had decided on Xlendi as our base for Gozo, as it looked especially charming and has a frequent bus connection to Gozo´s capital Victoria, where all bus lines come together. We had booked four nights at the San Antonio Guesthouse and then we're happy that we were allowed to check-in early. It was a family run guesthouse with a nice, basic room with flatscreen TV and a lovely balcony overlooking the sea - and it also has a swimming pool!

We didn´t waste time and went off to the Xmun Bus Stop, just a few meters away from the guesthouse. But it was closed due to roadwork - precisely for the time, where we would be there. Fortunately, Xlendi's main bus stop was just down the hill, along the bay and then behind St. Patrick's Hotel. And it was working. We took bus 306 and ten minutes later already arrived at Victoria's main bus terminal, using our convenient (second) 7-day-bus pass. 

The terminal is inside the city, so it was a short walk upwards to the city´s biggest attraction, the vast Cittadella. It crowns above the town and is a mixture of a medieval castle and a fortress. The fortified-complex houses several attractions, like the Gozo Cathedral and some museums. 

We started our walk with a visit at the Gozo Museum of Archaeology which presents stone carvings, sculptures and was included in our a Malta Heritage Pass, which we had bought on our first sightseeing day in Malta. One fascinating object that caught my attention was a fine white marble carving of Remus and Romulus suckling a she-wolf. This particular object was said to have been "discovered" in 1720 near Fontana in Gozo.

Next up was the Gozo Cathedral, which unfortunately wasn´t included. But it was rewarding to visit the Cathedral, built between 1697 and 1711, given the impressive marble floor, the beautiful paintings, and rich ornaments.

We walked a bit through the complex and came to the wall, which is a great viewing platform. 

After having a snack at the restaurant, where we could sit outside, we walked to the Gozo Nature Museum, still inside the Cittadella. They have a shell collection, stones, and some stuffed animals, concentrating on the Maltese Islands.

The Old Prison was, like the Nature Museum, also included in our pass, so we, of course, went there too and visited the cells.

Like many historical buildings and tourist attractions in Malta, the Cittadella was being renovated with support from the European Union. It was nice to see, as the Maltese seem to use the money for especially good effect, from the beautiful aquarium, the temples and the Limestone Heritage we visited earlier in the journey up to this. Combined with the new, frequent buses, which have electronic displays, signaling every bus stop in English, the Bus Passes for tourists and the Heritage Tickets, it is an excellent tourist infrastructure they built.

We were finished with the great Cittadella and walked down to the nearby Independence Square and then to the beautiful St. George`s Basilica.

After visiting a supermarket for some grocery shopping, we walked back to the bus terminal and went through the beautiful Villa Rundle Gardens. 

Soon we were back in Xlendi and after some relaxing at the hotel went for an evening stroll to the nearby Xlendi Tower, the oldest surviving watchtower in Gozo, built in 1650. There was a path leading to it, and behind it, we saw some salt pans. It is a beautiful area. 

On the way back we followed the path along the bay to the center of Xlendi, where many restaurants at the cove awaited.