Busuanga: Calauit Wildlife Sanctuary

Day 19: Coron (Busuanga)

We woke up at 3:00 a.m., fixed ourselves and we were then picked up at 4:00 by our guide at the hotel in Coron and took a short ride to the pier where our boat was waiting. I decided to pick up some bread and drank a cup of coffee at an eatery nearby. It took a few minutes and companion was already annoyed. Well, I needed something warm in my stomach, or else hell will break loose in there, and I won’t be enjoying the trip to Calauit. At first, the boatman wanted 7,000 pesos for the round-trip, but after some haggling, he agreed for 6,000 pesos since we were the only two passengers.  We tried to hire the boat for ourselves, so we’re free to decide on how long to stay. Otherwise, it’s always going to have a lot of waiting and a lot of drama just like our experience at Honda Bay in Puerto Princesa.

I was still feeling sluggish and decided to snooze in the boat. The ride takes about 3 hours. The landscape was still dark and exudes the aura of a mystic. It was a dreamscape, and it was one of the times I really felt at peace. Maybe because of the silence and the only sound you hear was coming from the motor of the boat. Then slowly the sun slowly came up. The low-lying mist blankets the landscape. It was splendid.

We arrived at around half past seven and immediately went to the reception, paid another 1,600 pesos for two people (300 pesos entrance fee and 1000 for the truck). The toilet has no flush, only buckets of water which is a dread for many guests. Nevertheless, it was serviceable.

You can also rent a van to Salvacion then a shorter boat ride to Calauit Island. The van cost around 7,000-8000 pesos. Initially, we wanted to go on a group tour which cost 2600 per person, and that includes the van ride and island transfer. With that enormous amount of fee, it would have been great if it included a meal or at least a coffee.

We were brought to the station, and with a small introduction from Rolly about the Calauit Wildlife Sanctuary we drove off through the park. The whole track was not much. We first went to feed the Giraffes. It was early enough, so most of the animals are still in the shade feeding. We were the only visitors on the island at the time. If we came a bit later, we probably haven’t been able to get close to the animals as they will be everywhere in the savannah. Some groups perhaps came then.

There were zebras and Calamian deer feeding nearby, but I was missing the topis, impalas and Elend antelopes that were originally there. I was told they have died and some are killed by the Balik-Calauit movement, a group of original settlers in the island who were resettled during the Marcos era to give way to this setting of the sanctuary. After a few photos, we drove on to a small enclosure to see the porcupines, a land turtle, monkeys, a wildcat, and a warthog.

The guide told us that they put those animals in the enclosure for a maximum of three months and then released them in the wilds again then take in other animals. That is to not disrupt them much from their natural habitats and also to guarantee the tourists to see the animals at just one place. Next, we went to the crocodile enclosure which is somewhat disappointing since it is small and cramped. On our way back we’ve seen a bayawak, a monitor lizard roaming around freely. The whole island tour took us approximately 1.5 hours and another 3 hours with the boat back to Coron town. (The group tours always go from 8:00-17:00).

My recollection of Calauit was during my college days with my classmates on our trip to the north of Palawan.

Sabang: Undertow Tows You Under

Day 15: Sabang

The next morning we roused at 6:30 to go on a mangrove tour. It was actually a bit late if one wants to see the birds. You just go to the beach right of the pier along the hotels and through the coconut groves on the same path going to the underground river. We agreed with the boatman the previous day to come earlier so that we can still see the birds and other animals. During low tide, our boatman, who is an old man, told us that you can even see the monkeys eating crabs. It was indeed a fantastic boat ride early in the morning with just the sound of nature in the mangrove forest. Towards the end of our tour, he sang for us their “mangrove song”. Then we got back to where we started and allowed to plant “our” mangrove to mark our visit. I will definitely check on it when I get back there. They have allotted an area where visitors could plant mangroves, and you can see varying sizes of growth and age of the plants.

We went swimming immediately right after the tour. The beach was deserted despite the best of weather. There were many signs at the hotel area warning everyone of a strong undertow thus it is dangerous to swim in the area. It was much of an alarmist thing. There were no lifeguards esp. after 6:00 p.m., so it was discouraged to swim. I have been there several times and can safely say I knew how the weather there is. Anyhow, if you don’t go away far from the beach and as long as you can still feel the sand on your feet, you can frolic on the waters relatively safe. Bathing or swimming in Sabang was pretty good since there were no rocks or seagrasses - just clear water and fine white sand.

 

On our way to Sabang, we were already warned against swimming. Most of the Filipinos are non-swimmers so I can understand the guide's concern. Naturally, the safety of her guests is her primary concern. Pesky sand flies (niknik) are also present in many beaches. Fortunately, we didn't have them in Sabang. Perhaps it's seasonal too. I can only remember during my previous trips that there were some in other swimming areas. After swimming, we went around a bit through this sleepy little village. Most of the tourist just arrive with the van, go to the underground river, eat lunch at some cottage then drive back to the city.

The accommodations in Sabang are relatively cheap and very affordable unless you wanted to stay at the more cosy resorts like Sheridan or Daluyon which prices range from 4,000 Php a night and up. The rest is basic cottages which cost as low as 800 Php (a cottage). There is no ATM machine in Sabang, so it's better to bring enough cash with you. We went to Sabang Cafe which lies on the right side of the road going back to Puerto Princesa. This is under new management which is a Filipino. It was formerly owned by a French. We ate a sumptuous meal then were surprised with a free dessert courtesy of the chef which I've learned was previously a chef of Sheridan. This was really a pleasant and very welcomed surprise. I'll truly recommend this café. (*As of 2017, this cafe is not in business anymore).

On our way back to our cottage, we made a stop at the tidal flats left of the pier, to take pictures, of the mountains as a fantastic backdrop, of small fishes and small crabs. We rested and then went to dinner at Dabdab's own restaurant.

It rained at night, and it feels so good warmly tucked in the bed and listening to the rain pattering down the roof. You are practically inside the rainforest, in the middle of this beautiful nature and feeling protected inside the cottage.